How to build wooden regulator, bracket and Vienna clocks from woodworking plans

Wooden regulator clocks were invented in England in 1720. Regulators are powered by gear and weight mechanism. These clocks were primarily used in observatories and as the standard accuracy during synchronization, repairs and manufacturing in clocks and watch shops.

Bracket clocks are small pendulum clocks that were placed in a shelf or a wall bracket. The following are the steps to make a Georgian-style bracket clock.

1. Case Components and Measurements

To understand the making of the Wooden Bracket Clock, we need to visualise the parts that composed the basic box. The parts are: two side frames, rear frame, dial mask, floor and the decorative bell top.

Cut list (Length x Width x Thickness)

Front Door

Stile – 2 pcs 288mm x 40mm x 12mm
Rail – 2 pcs 210mm x 55mm x 12mm

Rear Door

Stile – 2 pcs 213mm x 35mm x 12mm
Rail – 2 pcs 145mm x 35mm x 12mm

Bell Top

Main layer – 1 pc 800mm x 57mm x 35mm
Top layer – 1 pc 150mm x 90mm x 6mm
Locking bar – 1 pc 160mm x 60mm x 6mm
Floor – 1 pc 250mm x 155mm x 35mm
Top – 1 pc 800mm x 100 mm x 35mm

Side Frame

Front stile – 2 pcs 288mm x 31mm x 12mm
Rear Stile – 2 pcs 288mm x 43mm x 12mm
Top Rail – 2 pcs 100mm x 55mm x 12mm
Bottom Rail – 2 pcs 100mm x 55mm x 12mm

Rear Frame

Stile – 2 pcs 288mm x 35mm x 12 mm
Top Rail – 1 pc 210mm x 30mm x 12mm
Bottom Rail – 1 pc 210mm x 45 mm x 12mm

Dial Mask

Stile – 2 pcs 288mm x 70mm x 12mm
Rail – 2 pcs 125mm x 100mm x 12mm

Moulding

Top – 1 pc 1000mm x 28mm x 15mm
Base – 1 pc 1000mm x 35mm x 15mm

Other materials:

* Wood Veneer
* 4 40mm brass butt hinges
* Brass door hook and eye

2. The Side Frames

Cut the timbers and use a thicknesser to make a long piece of scrap. Then mould the side frame’s inner edges using ovolo cutter. Cut the upper and lower rails and use the cove cutter to cut both ends of the rails.

Cut a 3mm wide slot into the side frames to 6mm deep. Next, sand the plywood to fit the slots and glue the frames together.

3. The Dial Mask

The dial mask is a panel that screwed to the face of the clock. To make it, tongues are cut using the rebate cutter. Also, cut the grooves with the slotter to reinforce tongue on the sides.

The dial masks goes into the grooves cut inside the faces of the side frames. Its front face is set into 14mm from the side case’s front edges.

4. The Rear Frame

The rear frame is the final case component that incorporates the rear door opening. This gives access to adjust the pendulum length. It is made in the same way as the dial mask.

5. Assembling the Case

When everything fits together, glue the floor panel, rear frame and side frames. Set aside to dry.

6. Make the Top

The top clock case is a frame made of four pieces of timber that is joined together. Its mouldings are made with the use of the walnut.

Use a scrap timber about 60mm wide to cut the router. Stick the walnut to the bearer’s edge with the use of a double-sided tape. Also, attach two walnuts with shorter lengths to the bearer to help assist it to the router table.

7. Cutting the Mouldings

Use the bearing guided sunk bead cutter and ogee cutter to make this moulding. Form a bead in the middle of the walnut using the bead cutter. Then, with the use of the ogee cutter, form an ogee on the side of the bead.

To form the bottom moulding, we use the rounding-over cutter. Also, cut the mould pieces to length and glue them in the round base of the clock case.

8. The Rear Door

The rear door is made with mortise-and-tenon joints. With the use of the bearing-guided rebate cutter, form a recess on the inner face of the for the 2mm glass that will fit the case. Square the internal corners with a chisel.
Glue some strips of walnut on the inner case all around the door to act as a stopper. These will also reduce the dust to go inside the case.

9. The Front Door

The front door is made the same as the side frames and with the use of the cove cutter. Before cutting, glue veneer to the timber to make a neat finish. Cut some strips of walnut instead of using plywood to reinforce the corner joints.

10. Finishing Touches

Run the rough spots of the clock with fine abrasive paper and brush with button polish. After drying, rub the clock with 0000-grade wire wool and French-polish it to achieve the full bodied finish.

Attach the bell top to the frame using softwood toggles and long screws. Locate the face of the clock accurately in the dial mask using a masking tape and screw it.

Fit the brass into its rebates and glue a fabric in the inner face to keep out the dust. Also, secure the door’s glass pane in the same manner. Finally, screw the movement to the rear of the dial mask and put the door’s hook and eye.