How to build a DIY wooden picnic table that converts to bench

Materials You Need:

Wood
2×6 – 8 feet long (7 pcs)
2×4 – 8 feet long (4 pcs)
½ inches screws (2 pcs)
4 inches long, 1/2 diameter bolts (8 pcs)
Nuts and washers
Wood glue
Wood filler
Extra wood (optional)
Clamps
Tape measure
Milter saw
Drill
Hammer
Sandpaper

Cut List:

Legs – 2×4
Back – 28 7/8 inches(4pcs)
Front – 16 3/4 inches (4pcs)

Seat support – 2×4
27 inches (4 pcs)

Table support – 2×6
17 inches (4pcs)

Seat and table slats – 2×4
47 7/8 inches (12pcs)

Instructions:

1. Cut the wood according to the following sizes above, using either a miter saw or circular saw. Make adjustments according to your preference. If you favor a longer piece, simply increase the length of the seat and table slats and add two more pieces to the front and back legs. Don’t forget to use the proper safety equipment when cutting the wood.

2. Drill holes in the topmost center part of the back legs. This will be used for the table support. Set a front leg over a back leg, making sure the edges are straight, before drawing a line on the back leg over the top of the front leg. Attach the seat support to the side of the top edge of the front leg using galvanized screws, then secure the other edge of the support to the back leg. Add wood glue for further strength. Repeat the process for the other legs.

3. Place the now finished legs parallel to each other to ensure the seat supports are equal. Attach the seat slats to the seat supports using wood glue and screws (4 pcs per slat, 2 on each end). Leave a 2-inch overhang on each side of the seat and ¼ inch gaps in between slats. You may use a pencil as your guide for the gaps. If there’s a third set of legs, screw it in the middle of the completed seat. Measure the seat slats beforehand to make sure you don’t miscalculate.

4. Drill a hole in the center of the table support and attach them to the previously drilled hole in the back legs, using the 4 inch bolts with nuts and washers. Tighten the bolts and repeat step for the other table support. Place the table slats on top with ¼ inch gaps in between. Again, use a pencil if you prefer to. Leave 2 inches’ overhang on both edges to match the look of the seat. Position the table top vertically, then drill another hole through the table support and back leg. Insert a pin to keep it in place. Do the same to the other side.

5. Remove the pins so you can position the tabletop horizontally. It will be positioned in a way that’s too uncomfortable to use as a backrest, so you will have to determine your preferred angle. Once you have decided on the angle, use clamps to lock the table supports to the back legs and drill a hole through the table support and back leg. Repeat for the other side. Insert pin or bolt to secure it in place.

You can also secure two extra pieces of 2×4 wood on each exposed parts of the seat support below the tabletop, to add to the strength of your backrest. Measure the exposed seat support first before cutting the wood. Fasten with wood glue and screws.

6. Fill all holes with wood filler. Sand when completely dry, then rid the bench of residues using damp cloth to ensure a smooth finish. Add stain, primer or paint, depending on your preference. You can also add polyurethane if necessary.